Edinburgh, Scotland

 After connecting through Heathrow, we landed in Edinburgh, the majestic capital of Scotland. The weather welcomed us with a typical gray, gusty day. I know Texas wind, and this was its absolute equivalent—just vastly colder.

Our local friends met us at the airport and immediately drove us to Rosslyn Chapel, founded in 1446. While the chapel is famous for many reasons, I was drawn by its mystical lore. Depending on which legend you believe, it is either the hiding place of the Holy Grail or the final resting place of Mary Magdalene. Movie buffs will also recognize it from Tom Hanks’ The Da Vinci Code (2006). We walked through the exact stone rooms used during filming, which felt incredibly surreal (and no, we didn’t find the Grail!).

Next, we braved the elements at Craigmillar Castle, a medieval ruin dating back to the 14th century. The stronghold changed hands across several families over the generations until the Gilmour family moved into more modern lodgings in the 18th century, leaving the castle to turn into a romantic ruin. We battled the biting wind to reach the top of the parapet, where we were rewarded with a sweeping, panoramic view of the Lothian landscape.

Fun fact, the abbreviation for
Edinburgh Waste Water system

On our way to dinner, our friends regaled us with local Edinburgh trivia. We learned that the city sits atop extinct volcanoes—the most prominent being Arthur’s Seat—and that the cloning of Dolly the Sheep (named after Dolly Parton) was cloned nearby. In town, all the public tower clocks are intentionally set three to five minutes ahead so commuters never miss their trains. As a bonus for film fans, various winding corners of the city and Edinburgh Castle directly inspired the backdrops of the Harry Potter movies.

First meal was at The Queens Arms. Our friends insisted we try the Haggis. Now we have a friend, Irene, a native from Scotland. She once described to me the contents and preparation of Haggis, Scotland’s National Dish. From her description, it didn’t sound like something I would enjoy (or consume for that matter). So, I have worked under the assumption that Nick will try anything once.

The server brought out the traditional presentation of Haggis, a brown pudding-like mound between mashed potatoes (“tatties”…no jokes please) and mashed “neeps” (turnips). Fearing the worst, I dove in and was pleasantly surprised. The Haggis had the consistency of a meatloaf and the taste, and I kid you not, of Turkey stuffing. Very tasty.

The following day, we hopped onto one of Edinburgh's efficient double-decker transit buses to explore the historic Old Town. Our target was the Royal Mile, starting at St. Giles’ Cathedral. 

Built by King David I in 1124, St. Giles has been a working church for over 900 years. Inside, the soaring height of the ribbed ceiling and the vibrant, kaleidoscopic stained glass take your breath away. It also serves as a profoundly moving memorial to fallen military personnel, with poignant tributes carved into the walls and floors.

We quickly learned just how deeply the British Royal Family is rooted in Scottish history. The modern Windsors trace their lineage back to the House of Stuart, who ruled Scotland between 1371 and 1714. Because of this bond, when Queen Elizabeth II passed away in 2022, she was first brought to lie in state at Holyroodhouse Palace, on the other end of the Royal Mile, before her funeral service here at St. Giles.

From the cathedral, we met our guide for Edinburgh Castle. Our tour guide, an Australian named David, used brilliant historical context and sharp humor to escort us across the volcanic fortress grounds. As one of the oldest fortified sites in Europe, the castle sits atop a sheer volcanic crag, offering a commanding view stretching all the way to the North Sea coast. Iron Age tribes first occupied this stronghold around 900 BC, and it has changed hands violently throughout Scotland's turbulent past. Mary, Queen of Scots lived here safely for a time before royal life shifted down the road. Remarkably, it remains a functioning military base today.

At the castle's highest point sits St. Margaret’s Chapel, the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. Named for King David I’s charitable mother, it has become the National War Memorial honoring those lost in global conflicts, keeping their names in sacred books where new entries are still added today. We also explored the grim stone vaults of the crown prison, which once held 1,000 captive soldiers from the American Revolution. David pointed out a fascinating hidden gem: carved inside a wooden cell door is the earliest known depiction of the American flag in Europe.

After a grueling day of walking, we celebrated with delicious tapas, great service, and warm atmosphere at Café Andaluz before collapsing into bed.

The following day, we returned to the bottom of the Royal Mile to tour the Holyroodhouse Palace with audio guides. The site began as Holyrood Abbey in 1128, founded by King David I after he witnessed a mystical vision of a stag with a glowing cross—or "rood"—between its antlers. 

Construction on the palace itself began in 1501. When James VI of Scotland inherited the English crown in 1603, he moved his court to Windsor Castle in London, leaving Holyrood largely abandoned until the monarchy was restored in 1660. It wasn't until King George V visited in 1903 that the palace was finally modernized with electricity and central heating.

Today, King Charles III still uses Holyroodhouse for official state ceremonies. While the exterior boasts dramatic, somber Gothic architecture, the state apartments inside feel surprisingly grand and functional. We toured the Great Gallery, lined with portraits of Scottish royalty, the massive Dining Room, and the King’s Privy Chamber, where world leaders are still received today. Stepping back outside, we explored the skeletal, romantic ruins of the original 12th-century abbey. 

The palace is surrounded by manicured lawns, vibrant royal gardens, and a massive park, providing a peaceful, majestic end to our days adventure.